That's understood. Now, if you're making large amounts of wine, they are huge time savers. I dare say if you're making more than 10 gallons at a time you should make some investments. But that's not what this post is about. This is about making 2-4 boxes of grapes into wine.
Each box comes with 36 lbs of grapes, each box is good for about 2.4 to 2.5 gallons of wine (red, this post is for red - white wine is different). To make the wine you need to a) destem; b) crush apart without breaking seeds; c) punch down the cap (more on this later) and d) press out the skins.
What you'll need:
Of course, 2-4 boxes of grapes.
I've done as much as 12 boxes using this process, but it was more work than I'd like to repeat on that scale. 4 boxes isn't bad at all, though.
Process:
Let your grapes warm up - even just leaving them in the sun outside is helpful. A warm space inside is fine, but put something under them, they'll juice out a little. You can do this in the boxes.
Once they're not so cold that you don't want to handle them, take the grapes off the stems. The easiest way is using a milk crate - rub the bunches over the crate that's positioned over a bucket. The grapes will fall in, and likely be crushed a little. If you don't have a milk crate, wring the bunches off with your hands. They'll mostly burst this way, and that's great. The next step is to break as many as you can anyways.
Once the grapes are off the stem, mash 'em. Yes, you can use your feet. It's a bit awkward doing that in narrow buckets, but any means you have. I've long used my hands in buckets (with kitchen gloves).
Do not attempt to put them through a food processor or juicer or blender. The seeds will be chopped/crushed and your wine will taste bad as a result.
The goal isn't to crush every last grape, but to break at least 90% of them. This will allow fermentation to take place and it will release enzymes that degrade the skin - adding the flavor and color of the skin into your wine.
Important: The Crushed Grapes Should only fill 2/3s of your bucket! Use more buckets, do not fill past 2/3s!
Bring these buckets of crushed grapes into a warm environment. Same space you ferment juice. Add a 1/8 tsp of KMS (Potassium Metabisulfite) to retard wild yeast and bacteria for every 2 boxes in a bucket. Mix it in, apply a loose lid.
Now you wait one day, then add yeast. One pack for every 2 boxes. Sprinkle in (or rehydrate as you prefer) and put a lid loosely on top again. Starting the following day, 1-3x per day, you'll push the cap down with a sanitized spoon/paddle.
Pushing the cap down isn't clear until you see it: the skins will press together and form a cap that rises over the fermenting juice below. Pushing it back in increases the extraction of flavor and color. At least once per day is needed, 2-3x is great if you are able. Always sanitize first.
For a more fruit-forward wine, press out in 7 days. More tannin and body, press out once the cap no longer rises (could be as much as 2 weeks or a little more). Once the cap doesn't rise anymore you need to press out.
To press, have that bucket with a spigot on the bottom sanitized and have the spigot closed. Line it with a mesh bag, then pour (gently) the fermented skin/must into the bag. Using a spoon to keep the bag off the side with the spigot, run the juice into a carboy (a little hose on the spigot is ideal, the same you'd have on a siphon stem).
Once the free-run juice is out, get your gloves on (if you haven't already) and using fists, beat that pulp down. Squeeze, push, punch - as you do this, you will loose more and more juice. Fill that carboy/demijohn up most of the way. If you pressed before finishing fermentation (it was still pushing a cap), leave some headroom for fermentation.
From there, it's just like juice that's mostly or completely fermented. You know the drill!
It's not hard - the hard part is discovering you love the product and wanting to make more. As always, call if you have any questions!
Cheers!
]]>Preparation and Primary Fermentation:
Cleaning/Sterilization: Before starting make sure all equipment is clean and sterilized prior to use. Dirty or contaminated equipment can ruin the quality of the juice and the ending product. To remove dust or stains that may be present clean with your brush and B-Brite or PBW (alkaline based cleaner). Once cleaned, sterilize all your equipment, containers, bottles and corks with a Star San or potassium metabisulfite solution immediately to a few hours before use. After sterilizing drain well but do not rinse, it does not have to be dry to use.
Mixing and recording pre-fermentation parameters: Carefully remove the bucket lid by removing the safety seal and pry off the lid. Apply the adhesive thermometer to the exterior of the bucket. Let juice warm up to room or cellar temperature (around 70 degrees) and mix juice well from the bottom up with a long spoon or paddle. Next, measure and record the Brix or Specific Gravity reading with your triple scale hydrometer and record temperature to establish a fermentation starting point. Record your Brix (or S.G.) and temperature in a log. Typical Brix readings will be between 20.0 and 26.0 (1.08 and 1.11 S.G.). This reading will tell you what the % alcohol of your wine will be when fermentation is completed. See attached sheet on how to read your hydrometer. If you are looking to make a sweet wine, please refer to the last sections of this document.
Yeast Hydration: Place 4 ounces of 95 to 104 degrees F water (preferably chlorine free) in a large cup. Water above 105 degrees F will kill the yeast. Gently stir yeast into warm water. Let mixture stand in cup covered with a paper towel for 10 to 15 minutes. Bubbling or increase in mixture size is a good sign of rehydration. Add 2 ounces of juice to the yeast mixture and wait an additional 10 minutes. Pour yeast mixture into bucket and stir gently. Place juice bucket (primary fermenter) with lid lightly on. For red wine fermentations place bucket in a warm environment, 70 degrees F. For most white wine fermentations, cooler cellar temperatures (62 to 68 deg. F) are best when bright fruit flavors and aromas are the goal.
Primary fermentation: There may be a one to two day lag time between adding the yeast and active fermentation. Do not be alarmed by this. Once fermentation is under way begin stirring the pail from the bottom up once per day. Take a Brix reading very other day to monitor the progress of the fermentation. Readings of Brix (and S.G.) will decrease with time as the yeast convert sugar to alcohol.
Optional : Approximately 1/3 of the way through the fermentation (ex. Initial Brix = 24.0, 1/3 fermentation = 16.0 Brix) it is advisable to add your yeast nutrient, Fermaid K, to the fermentation. This addition will ensure the yeast finish their job of converting sugar to alcohol promptly and without trouble. This nutrient addition can avoid a stuck fermentation or some off flavors or aromas being produced as the yeast struggles to survive in a higher alcohol low nutrient environment near the end of fermentation.
Racking (Transferring): Check Brix/S.G. every couple of days. It is most ideal to rack once the Brix reading reaches 0.0 (S.P. reaches 1.000). Rack the new wine into a sanitized 6-gallon carboy with your sanitized pump style siphon and tubing. When siphoning wine, elevate the bucket so it is higher than the 6 gallon carboy. The siphon pump will start the wine flowing but gravity keeps it moving. Once wine is transferred fit your airlock with drilled stopper in the opening of the carboy. Be sure the carboy is filled within three inches or less of the top to limit oxidation of the new wine. You can use any sound wine to top off the carboy if it is not filled to the top after racking. At this point the yeast will finish fermenting the last remaining residual sugars so you may notice a very slow bubbling of your air lock for several days longer. Let your new wine sit in the carboy for 4 to 6 weeks. You will notice the wine begin to clarify and some sediment accumulate at the bottom of the carboy.
Aging your new wine: After the 4 to 6 weeks, it is time to rack your wine off the sediment into another clean sanitized carboy. During this racking it is also time to add a dose of potassium metabisulfite to the wine to protect it from any spoilage organisms that may be present. Simply dissolve ¼ tsp. of the potassium metabisulfite, per 6 gallons of wine, in an ounce of water and add to the wine during the racking process so that it is distributed throughout the entire 6 gallons. Place the drilled stopper with airlock on the carboy. (Optional: At this point it is also the time to add any oak chips or staves to the wine if a kiss of oak flavoring is desired in your final product. Oak is seldom used in white wines but is often used in reds to add structure, mouth feel and flavor.) Age your wine in a dry cool place for 6 to 9 months.
Long term aging: After an additional 6 to 9 months of aging your wine will likely have matured and mellowed sufficiently and be ready for bottling. This is the time to evaluate the clarity of your wine and decide if your wine needs to be further clarified before bottling. Clarification is done with a fining agent or through filtration. The decision to clarify is personal and is usually done for aesthetic reasons only. For the beginner and for smaller lots, it is usually best to clarify with an appropriate fining agent. The most common are gelatin for red wines and bentonite for white wines. If you decide the wine did not clarify enough on its own and want to use a fining agent, contact Northeast Winemaking and their staff will guide you through the clarification process.
Bottling: Once your wine has aged and clarified to your satisfaction it is time to bottle. Wine should always be racked off any sediment or fining agent used at bottling time. Rack off into a clean sanitized carboy or pail. Always add a protective dose of potassium metabisulfite to the wine during this pre bottling racking at the rate of ¼ tsp. per 6 gallons of wine. If making a sweet wine (see immediately below) you must also add 0.3 tsp of potassium sorbate per gallon of wine. Clean, sanitize and drain your bottles prior to filling with wine. Get your hand or floor corker ready and put appropriate number of corks in a cool bath of a gallon of water with a ¼ tsp of potassium metabisulfite to wet the corks and ease the corking process. Get your auto gravity fed siphon going with your bottling wand attached and fill and cork your bottles promptly. After corking let bottles stand upright for three days to allow corks to re-expand. Thereafter, store wine bottles on their side in a cool dark place. It is advisable to let your wine rest for a month to get over the shock of the potassium metabisulfite addition and bottling process otherwise known as bottle shock.
Sweet Wine: Some white wines and occasionally a red may want to be bottled with a little sweetness based on personal preference. Below are two options to make a sweet wine. Option 1 is simpler, but option 2 is preferred. By allowing the wine to finish and then back sweetening as in option 2, you will have much greater control on the sweetness of the wine. Instead of saying I want the wine to finish at a specific gravity 1.010, as in option 1, you can actually sweeten the wine to taste.
Option 1: Making a sweet wine by stopping fermentation. When at 0 Brix, rack immediately, add the stabilizing packet (Potassium Metabisulfite and Potassium Sorbate) and chill the wine to below 50 degrees F for 5-7 days. Rack the wine again to a 6 gallon carboy and age 4-6 weeks. Then follow steps for long term aging and bottling.
Optional 2: Making a sweet wine by back sweetening: Before adding yeast to your pail of juice, freeze 5% (38 oz per a 6 gal pail) of the juice for each 1% of residual sugar you want in the finished wine. Be aware that 1% residual sugar will give a mild but noticeable sweetness to the finished wine. Put the juice in the back of a refrigerator and let settle for several days. Pour off the juice into another container leaving the sediment behind, then freeze the juice for later use. Make, age and clarify your wine normally as you would for a dry wine. Several days before your dry wine is ready for bottling, thaw out the reserved juice in the back of a refrigerator and do not disturb during the thawing process. When thawed, let juice sit and settle out any remaining particles in the juice. Carefully pour off the juice into another container and leave behind any sediment that settled to the bottom. The juice should be clear before adding to your wine. On bottling day pour the juice into the clean sanitized carboy or pail your wine will be racked into for bottling. In addition to the ¼ tsp. of potassium metabisulfite you must also add 0.3 tsp. of potassium sorbate per gallon (1.8 tsp. for 6 gal.) to the carboy at this time. Then follow steps bottling.
How to Read a Hydrometer
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Equipment: Primary fermenter, stirring spoon, hydrometer, siphon tubing kit, 6 gallon carboy, airlock and bung. A thermometer and brewing belt may be used to monitor and control temperature. A grape crusher/destemmer, a wine press, and a filter can be used to decrease time and labor.
***Be sure to clean and sanitize anything that your grapes and/or must comes in direct contact with.
The Grapes
The first thing you need to do to make wine from grapes is to source your grapes. Begin at a reputable vendor that takes the proper care in the handling and storage of the grapes. They should be able to tell you about where the grapes are from and the average Brix, pH, and acidity. If possible, inspect the grapes to select the best looking cases that they have availabl for the style of wine that you would like to make.
After purchasing and receiving your grapes the first step is to remove any foreign and undesirable vineyard material, such as insects and other types of vegetation, and remove any leaves still present in your boxes of grapes.
Try and sort the grapes to remove any moldy bunches, or rotten and spoiled berries. Discard any grapes that look damaged or unhealthy. This can be time consuming, however, it minimizes the risk of some problems down the road in the vinification process.
After sorting your grapes the next step is the crushing and destemming. This is not a required step for white winemaking, although it does make the pressing easier. Crushing and destemming is required for red winemaking, as it plays a major role in what is known as phenolic extraction.
***Phenols; often referred to as polyphenolics, polyphenols, or simply phenols, are compounds including many natural color pigments, tannins, and flavor compounds that are present in fruits and vegetables.
Crushing and Destemming
Crushing is the first operation where tannins are extracted. When whole bunch clusters of grapes are crushed, tannins are extracted from the grape skins, seeds, and stems. Of these, the stems are the only tannin imparting component that can be removed prior to crushing.
Destemming is the removal of stems from grape bunches and may be done before or after crushing. If done after, there is more mess and time required, and more tannin will be extracted. The decision on when to destem depends on your equipment at hand, time, and patience. There are various machines on the market that can be used to crush and destem your grapes. Both crushing and destemming can be done by hand without the use specialized equipment, but the process will be very labor intensive and time consuming.
***Stems; especially green, non-woody stems; increase pH, which will reduce color intensity, fruitiness, and freshness. Stems add bitter and harsh tannins, that will require longer aging and maturation to become balanced and drinkable.
Maceration
After crushing and destemming the grapes, a red wine will need to be macerated. Maceration is the process of letting the crushed grape berries soak in the juice before, during, and after fermentation. The process of maceration is to extract phenolics (flavor and aroma compounds) and intensify color. It is during this period that red wines acquire part of their structure, color and flavors, and that wine’s aging potential can be influenced.
Macerating enzymes, such as Pectic Enzyme, may be added to the must at the crush to increase juice yield, tannin extraction and to prevent possible pectin-related problems, such as haze, at bottling time.
White wines do not benefit from maceration, since no color extraction is required and in general tannins are not desirable.
***As a general rule of thumb, the longer the maceration/fermentation period, the more tannins, color, and flavors will be extracted and the more full-bodied and colored a red wine will be.
Pressing
In white winemaking, either whole (uncrushed) grape bunches, or pre-crushed must, may be pressed. In white winemaking, pressing always takes place prior to fermentation and within a few hours of being crushed. Pressing is the process of extracting the juice from the grapes through pressure. There are several styles and sizes of presses available, choose a size and style that fits your needs. Pressing may also be done by using a nylon straining bag and squeezing the juice out by hand.
***In red winemaking, grapes are first crushed and destemmed, macerated, and fermentation begins. Just before or after fermentation is complete, grape solids (skins, seeds, pulp, and stems) are transferred to the winepress for pressing.
Yeast
Alcoholic fermentation is the conversion of must into wine, it is the single most vital and critical winemaking procedure. Constant care and supervision during fermentation is a mandatory practice. One of the critical factors, however, is yeast selection. Yeast is more than just a fermentation agent, yeast shapes the style of the wine, influences the wine’s qualities, and reduces the risk of fermentation problems.
Fermentation can start on its own from wild yeasts, which have formed on the grape skins and in the winery. Wild yeast fermentations must be monitored because they are prone to microbial spoilage and the results are not predictable. Controlling wild yeast is easily done with the addition of campden tablets or potassium metabisulfite.
Cultured wine yeast strains are genetically identified, cleaned, and grown in isolated laboratory conditions. Each type has been selected to work best for particular styles of wine or situation during fermentation. When choosing a yeast, consider the following fermentation factors:
***See our Winemaking Yeast Guide to help determine the best yeast for your wine.
Red Wine Fermentation
***Before beginning fermentation test the must for Brix (SG), titratable acid (TA), pH, and sulfur dioxide (free SO2). Record these measurements and make any adjustments necessary. Use a refractometer or hydrometer to measure the sugar content, an acid test kit will be used to measure the TA of the wine, acid test strips or a pH meter would be used to check the pH, and a titrets kit would be used to check the sulfite level.
In red winemaking, following crushing and any cold soak maceration, the initial vigorous fermentation takes place in a large open fermenter, and in order to minimize oxidation, reduce the risk of spoilage, and to keep dust and fruit flies (a major source of acetobacter, mother of vinegar) out, a heavy plastic sheet or tarp is kept over the vessel; which also traps a protective layer of carbon dioxide (a byproduct of fermentation) on the surface of the must. To begin fermentation warm the must to at least 68*F, but not much higher as heat is generated by yeast during fermentation, and add your selected yeast. Twice a day during fermentation the cap (residue of skins and grape particles that float on the must during primary fermentation) needs to be punched down. To do this, remove the cover and using a sanitized spoon, paddle, or plunger, to stir the cap back down into the juice. Continue this until the wine has finished fermenting, which will typically last 7-14 days, depending on fermentation temperature.
When vigorous fermentation has subsided and the Brix (SG) is below -1.3B* (0.995), rack the wine and transfer it to another fermenter, and press the pomace (residual grape skins, solids, stems, and seeds). At this point test the wine, at a minimum for TA, pH, and free SO2. These values will be different from the pre-fermentation test, as fermentation can decrease TA, and raise pH and SO2 levels. Make any adjustments that are needed to balance the wine to the intended style. At this point you can clarify and stabilize the wine; however it will improve greatly if allowed to age for up to 6 months in a cool dark place. During the aging period, change the sanitizer in the air lock monthly. Monitor the level of wine in the vessels and top up as needed. Rack the wine again before clarification if the wine has been aged.
***Caution: Fermentation of large volumes of must will release asphyxiating quantities of carbon dioxide gas. To eliminate any potential health hazards, properly ventilate the fermentation area to the outside. And never conduct fermentation in a closed container without the use of a properly functioning air lock, otherwise, the consequences of an exploding fermenter can be disastrous.
White Wine Fermentation
***Before beginning fermentation test the must for Brix (SG), titratable acid (TA), pH, and sulfur dioxide (free SO2). Record these measurements and make any adjustments necessary. Use a refractometer or hydrometer to measure the sugar content, an acid test kit will be used to measure the TA of the wine, acid test strips or a pH meter would be used to check the pH, and a titrets kit would be used to check the sulfite level.
In white winemaking, must should be fermented in a properly air locked fermenter. In most cases there is no requirement for color or tannin extraction, therefore there is rarely a pre- or post-fermentation maceration, and there is no need for a hot fermentation. In fact, a cooler fermentation in conjunction with an appropriate yeast strain is most beneficial for optimal flavor and aroma development, and has a number of benefits essential to making fruit-forward wines. Fermentation for white wine is usually carried out between 55*F and 65*F, this slows it down allowing for slower aromatic development and may take several weeks, depending on temperature and Brix. The cool temperature and slower fermentation also preserves the more subtle and delicate flavors and aromas that may be volatilized with an otherwise vigorous fermentation. Once the wine reaches a Brix (SG) of -1.3B* (0.995) the fermentation is complete and the wine may be racked and transferred to another vessel. At this point the wine should be tested for TA, pH, and free SO2. After making any necessary adjustments the wine may be clarified and stabilized.
***Caution: Fermentation of large volumes of must will release asphyxiating quantities of carbon dioxide gas. To eliminate any potential health hazards, properly ventilate the fermentation area to the outside. And never conduct fermentation in a closed container without the use of a properly functioning air lock, otherwise, the consequences of an exploding fermenter can be disastrous.
Clarification
Clarification is the general class of physical and chemical stabilization processes used to achieve and maintain clarity throughout the wine’s life, and includes racking, fining, and filtration.
Wine is clarified throughout the winemaking and vinification by several rackings or transfers, and if desired, by fining following fermentation, and optionally by filtration prior to bottling. You can rack a wine as little or as often as you deem necessary, but be cautious of the negative effects of over processing and extended exposure to air. A clear wine requires a minimum racking schedule of:
Racking will always results in a smaller volume of clear wine as the sediment volume is separated and discarded. This lost volume should always be replaced immediately, with a wine of similar style. Testing for free SO2 should be done throughout the aging and racking process to be certain that the wine is still protected against spoilage bacteria and to protect against unwanted oxidation.
Stabilization through fining and filtration is the clarification of a wine through chemical or mechanical means. There are many chemical fining agents available; including bentonite, isinglass, kieselsol, gelatin, Sparkaloid, and SuperKleer. These products aid in the binding of suspended solids in the wine into larger clumps that then precipitate out, leaving a film on the bottom of the vessel, of which the clear wine will need to be racked off. Fining can be the last step prior to bottling, and should always be done prior to filtration, to avoid clogged filtration pads. Filtration is done by forcing the wine through a filter pad by gravity or the use of a pump. There are typically three levels of filtration: coarse, polish, and sterile. Coarse filtration removes any particulate larger than 8 microns. Polish filters remove anything larger than 2.5 micron. The sterile filters remove anything larger than 0.5-1 micron, which includes yeast and bacteria.
Once your wine has been clarified, stabilized, and aged to the where you would like the wine it's time to bottle. Once bottled your wine will need additional time to mature in a cool dark place.
Flow Chart for Red Winemaking
Flow Chart for White Winemaking
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